Chapter ONE--What IS Clicker Training? Let's discuss!

[Adina P]

When you are finished reading chapter one, please share your thoughts, questions and insights in this discussion.

If you have not yet received the book or are still awaiting your password, don't worry, you won't be behind!

[Doodle Kisses]

I think that puppy had quite a bit of clicker under his belt already...the fact your pup put his paws on there is a big step for one session :) This takes time and my understanding is the more clicker behaviors he tries the more he will try.

[fergie11]

I agree with Jane on this. She's (or all of us) are going to have to lure him around the box in the very beginning just to try and get dog to know what we're looking for. Don't you think?

[Adina P]

You could...but you need to get rid of the LURE A.S.A.P. so doggy doesn't depend on the lure.

THIS is another place where targeting can come in handy. Heck if your pups don't like the target stick, just have them target your hand...you always have your hands with you. Then you can direct them ONTO the box with your hand.

But my understanding is it works better if you take the time to let them learn to go to the box, step on it, stand with front feet, etc. FIRST. Everything will be slow at first, but if the pup can think of it himself, he owns it =)

[Kathy (Ellie & Oliver)]

I realize that I am going to have to think differently about training Ellie & Oliver. I need to change my mind set. Looking for the good behavior instead of correcting the wrong behavior is some thing that will be challenging because we're so programmed for corrections. Also, waiting for the dog to volunteer the behavior is really different from what I have been teaching them. I feel pretty mixed up at this point because I want to keep training, but I'm not sure how to incorporate clicker training into what my dogs already know. I think that we will finish up our obedience lessons, keep practicing targeting, and as I learn more about clicker training begin to transition to this method. It will be extremely helpful to hear comments from others. Kathy (Ellie & Oliver)

[Doodle Kisses]

For the stuff your dog already knows I think you can use clicker to refine behavior. so when you practice 'sit' (which I assume are things your dog already knows) you can limit clicks to really NICE sits: straight not sloppy or slouchy, quick not slow, wherever he's standing before sitting rather than coming to you...etc.

[Doodle Kisses]

It's ok to try to stop bad behavior in the moment..per clicker philosophy...but look for what you can teach and put on cue so that you can create a new behavior in the meantime.

[Ellen]

I agree that my training techniques for Riley will need to change by waiting for good behaviors rather than correcting bad behavior, but I started using that technique when Riley countersurfs, and I've seen some improvement. BCT (Before Clicker Training), when I caught Riley in the act, I would say "Off" firmly, but he would just stare at me as if saying "Yeah, what are you going to do about it?" I would often say "Off" 2 more times with no reaction. Only when I would approach him with steam shooting out of my ears would Riley finally take his paws off the counter, and then I would give him a brief time out.

After reading Chapter 1, I tried standing near him and waiting for him to stop countersurfing without saying "Off" or approaching him and then clicked and treated when he did. At first, we often ended up in a showdown, and it would take a REALLY long time for him to take his paws off the counter ....sometimes a full minute. But after a couple of times, he seemed to get it and started to respond much quicker, a couple of times as soon as he caught my eye....so, the technique seems to be working.

[Adina P]

That's neat! In a situation where it is not safe, definitely just help him "off" the counter, etc. But you can also work on an alternate command so that he learns to respond to it quickly. AND manage the situation by making sure he gets NO reward for counter surfing. That's the other challenge...if a dog is rewarded by the environment or simply because he enjoys doing a behavior...you'll have to do your best to PREVENT the dog from doing that behavior in the first place AND make sure the environmental rewards (yummy things on counters) are NOT there...ever. Each time he finds something cool on the counter (even if it is weeks apart) he will start to gamble for MORE.

[5a54ofb5qk1d]

How long did it take for y'all to get your passwords? I finally got signed up around noon and thought the email was coming immediately but still haven't received it.

[Adina P]

Jill RIGHT as soon as you paid it should have taken you to a page where ALL the downloadable material could be downloaded immediately even before you got your password. Just check your spam and DON'T delete anything unless you are 100% sure it is not the email.

Clark added a long description of "How To Download Your Course" in my original announcement: http://www.doodlekisses.com/group/doodlespringtraining2009/forum/to... -- scroll to the info after the "sign up now" stuff and bonus descriptions. Please note that the passwords, etc Clark mentions is not the one YOU should use...it is merely an example of what to look for.

[Jeanette]

I am getting it except waiting for the dog to volunteer the behavior. So does one wear a treat bag and clicker all day long and click all the good behaviors we see? How will the dog know what is going on? Or do we set up several five minute training sessions and wait and wait? Not being able to name or cue the behavior until it has been demonstrated several times is a new behavior I need to get clicked and treated for! This will be a challenge!

[Adina P]

You set up sessions when you're actually working on something specific. Don't remember if you were part of the 7-day mini course but everything is usually a set-up session starting with skill building like targeting. The more you do clicker training the more you and your dog will excel at it and they WILL offer lots of behaviors during clicker sessions. Several 5-10 minute sessions through the day working on targeting and random things will build YOUR skills and your dog's skills. Get those clicker communication connections made and your dog WILL offer behaviors during training. What you happen to 'catch' outside of official training times is just icing.

So no you don't have to have treats and clickers in your pockets constantly. And in those circumstances when you catch your dog doing something cool like a stretch bow as he/she is waking up from a nap then if you have your clicker attached to a wrist coil or lanyard then you can CLICK for it and THEN run and get a treat for a reward. You ALWAYS must treat after a click, but once your dog 'gets the connection' the treats don't have to come in a split second....just soon. You can keep a few treat jars in strategic locations in your house (bookshelves, counters, etc) so you can quickly grab them.

But as in all training...there is no way to get rid of all training equipment and only train at set times. All interaction with your dog is training. So even if you're not clicking, you can still praise. AND you can charge a 'word' too like "YES" or "GOOD" that you can use when your clicker is not in your hand. AND THEN run and get that treat =)