Buying checklist

[Blueberry Cottage]

Hi everyone,

I recently posted this on the breeders forum and have been asked to share it here as well so that people buying a puppy can also have this list...

One of the things I enjoyed in my previous roles (in very different industries) has been to provide mentorship and help to those starting out and learning the industry. While I am still very much a newbie of the labradoodle breeding world, I wanted to take a few minutes to start a post that I think would be very helpful. One of the initial and probably most important things that new breeders go through after determining they do indeed want to be a breeder is identifying and purchasing their foundation stock. One of the things I looked for was a list…I love checklists…for the things to consider, specific questions to ask, etc, etc, etc. Hopefully the list below will help everyone - newbies and those who are more established, both in our individual programs as well as for the breed as a whole. I would love to have everyone add to the list so that it can be comprehensive.

• Copy of pedigree for the dog being considered - 5 generations is reasonable
• Copy of health testing completed to date
o Copy of any "cleared by parentage" reports
o ALAA required health tests includes - Hips & Elbows
o ALAA Silver Paw also includes - CERF (every 18 mo)
o ALAA Gold Paw also includes - Thyroid TgAA (every 18 mo by OFA, Dr. Dodds, or independent lab), PRA Clearance (CBP is ok)
o ALAA recommended tests - CERF (annually), Patellas, Thyroid TgAA (every 18 mo by OFA or Dr. Dodds), vWD, Cardiac, PRA Optigen Report, DNA Parentage Identification Profiles - I recevied an email after my first post to remind everyone that cardiac exams can be done by a regular vet or cardio vet.
o PennHip - ask for both percentile and DI score for both hips (over the years the number of dogs tested will go up and therefore the percentiles will adjust accordingly so the DI scores are really the only "apples to apples" comparison from dog to dog)
o OFA or Wallace Hips/Elbows - if you plan to certify at 2 yrs of age ask what the guarantee is if they fall below your standards.
o What other health testing do you want done that is not included in the agreement? Is that additional testing guaranteed? If not, this is a red flag in my opinion.
o Who is responsible for paying for additional health testing - if you purchase the dog or end up passing on the dog? Where will the additional health testing be done - seller or buyer's vet?
o Are there any known health issues with this dog? Are there any known health issues in the lines of this dog? Are there any known cases of Addison's in this dog's lines? Are there any suspected cases of Addison's in this line? Have there been any seizures in the siblings, ancestors or offspring? Don't expect anyone to volunteer this information.
• If a stud, does he produce viable sperm yet?
• Does the dog live with them or is the dog in a temporary guardian home (friend, family)? What is and who are a part of the current family dynamic?
• Is the dog potty trained and/or doggie door trained?
• Conformation - confirm all conformation descriptions with pictures and videos of the dog from the front, rear, side both dry and wet (or shaved) (most cell phones and pocket cameras have video capability these days). Pictures of the ancestors and/or offspring.
• Conformation - look at the top line, toeing in or out, body should be square, tail should be saber or gay, not tea pot (as cute as tea pots are, they can cause back issues), scissor bite, smooth, easy gait/prance about them - not stiff or awkward, face should be moderately broad, not too blocky, long or pointy - measurements are great as it is hard to tell with pictures depending on the coat and cut
• Conformation - Have there been any bite issues (over or under bites) in the siblings, ancestors or offspring?
• Coat - Ask for the dry pictures to be in the dog's natural coat so that you can see what it looks like. Is the dog going through a coat change? Consider asking for the dog to be groomed to a 2 inch puppy cut prior to receiving to ensure there is not severe matting. I have found that pictures after a good grooming can hide a lot of issues in conformation and coat.
• Temperament - happy go lucky attitude, confident, clever, social butterfly, watch for dogs described as alpha - some are ok, others times the better descriptor is aggressive - if alpha, do they also bark, are they ball crazy, do they tear apart toy stuffing in 2 seconds flat, ask for videos of the dog/puppy interacting with different types of people/animals - women, men, children, cats, other dogs - not just dogs at the breeders home. Any quirks...i.e. only barks at men with baseball caps...
• What are the faults in this line? If you could change anything in this line, what would it be? If there are no faults, this is a red flag in my opinion. While we all love our dogs and think the world of them, we are also trying to improve upon the breed and we can't do this without knowing what could/should be improved.
• If any of the above health testing, conformation or temperament doesn't pass or meet your expectations, at what age is a replacement or refund offered? How long do you need to/can you wait for a replacement or refund?
• Once you figure all that out, ask all the health questions again only for the parents and maybe grandparents.
• Restrictions - Are there any restrictions on the dog you are buying? (i.e. can't keep a boy until the dog is 2 yrs, any breeding puppies can't be sold to a certain program or programs in a certain location, must ESN before pups leave your program, etc)
• Payment options - all up front, puppy price up front and then rest when dog passes testing, puppy price up front and more when dog passes testing and more when the first litter arrives, etc.
• Newbies - ask the selling breeder to put your website on their site, post when you have your first litter, etc.
• Have a signed copy of the contract (by both parties) prior to setting up shipping or any additional health testing so that none of the items above have any room for misinterpretation. Unfortunately miscommunications happen as there are many details to keep straight and typically everyone wants things just a little differently.
• Contracts should not be favorably overweighted in either party's direction. We are supporting each other's program to some extent when we purchase/sell a dog.
• If you feel rushed, then it is not the right move for you or your program. If you don't get a response in a reasonable time frame to additional questions, you may want to continue looking. Buying a breeding dog is a big investment so it is worthwhile to spend time asking questions upfront.
• If it is a thumbs up for all parties, don't forget to ask about the daily things - what does the dog eat, how much, what is the daily routine, where are they kept at night or when not home, favorite toy, etc.

As I mentioned, I love lists so I don't forget to ask the questions. :) I always feel like a pain in the butt when I go back several times with questions…for those of you who like lists, enjoy! Thank you to those of you who helped me prepare this initial list. I will be adding any suggestions to a word document that I have prepared and am more than happy to share with anyone who would like a copy, just send me an email.

While some of these items only apply to breeders purchasing a breeding dog, it is good information to have.  For those of you looking to purchase a puppy, I hope it helps!

[Bonnie and Kona]

You are amazing.

[Nancy, Ned, Clancy, and Charlie]

This was very interesting and provided questions that even those of us only interested in getting a pet, should ask.