Dog going uncontrollable when she sees other dogs

[Cheryl]

Molly turned 1 end of June. She has always barked some at dogs when we go on walks, but it's really escalated. When she sees dogs she literally becomes uncontrollable. Barking, lunging. Other dog owners who used to be friendly when we went past now pull their dogs away, I can't blame them it looks like she is gojng to charge at the other dog. Her tail is wagging and she has never bit anyone. But it clearly turns people off. While she is doing it she will not respond to commands, is in her own world of fast barks and jumps. We had scary incident last week when she saw two dogs, knocked me over and escaped from harness as I was on ground. Thankfully she was not hurt nor were other dogs but we are at a point where she may be danger to herself. I had trainer here who felt Molly needs more doggie socialization and that this is signs of frustration from seeing dogs and not accessing them? She also has started barking in window. She gets lots of attention, I stay home mom so she is not alone much but doesn't have dog friends . Has anyone dealt with this? Does it sound like socialization issue? Advice?

[Adina P]

This is NOT a socialization issue in my opinion.  She may very well be frustrated, annoyed, anxious to say hi...whatever it may be, but I don't think that that is solved by more play time with dogs.   To me it is a training issue.  She needs to learn how to relax and respond to commands around dogs.  She may do great with commands when nothing is going on and there are no distractions, but other dogs are a form of distraction.  So no better way to learn to work around other dogs than by practicing working around other dogs.  But you can't go from 3 blocks away to 3 feet away immediately.  You have to work up to working around other dogs.  You will need to watch her body for signs of excitement and then back off a bit if you see her starting to get worked up.  For example, if 20 feet away from other dogs she starts to get antsy, back up to 25 feet and do some obedience repetition there.  Then slowly inch up closer until she can respond within 20 feet.  Next time start at 20 feet and go through her commands, work her a bit, and then move in closer. The closer you get the harder it will be and the slower you'll need to go.  But you can practice till you turn blue at home and away from other dogs, she'll never get calm on leash near other dogs until she has had time to practicing good behavior.  My two cents.

[Karen, Jasper and Jackdoodle]

I agree that this is not a socialization issue but rather a training issue; I'd find a better trainer (more experience, a proven track record) and start working on basic training first, then training around distractions, as Adina described.

Also, a wagging tail doesn't equal happy, good or friendly intentions. It depends on how the tail is held and how it is wagged. It also depends on the rest of the dog's body language. If the tail is held high and stiff, the wag is stiff, and/or the body is tensed, that's not a sign of friendliness. 

[Karen, Jasper and Jackdoodle]

Cheryl, I see you are a member of the Training Group. You will get a lot of help if you post about this there. 

[Maryann,Roo and Tigger]

I agree that it is a training issue. First I would change her to a pinch collar ( much less harsh than a choke collar and much easier to use) or to a gentle leader.  I know that harnesses are popular, but really truly they were made to allow a dog to pull a load without strain or pain, as a training tool they leave something to be desired.

 My Roo was just like this from 4 months to a year and then started up again twice as silly at 18 months.  The gentle leader has helped him enormously.  Remember with the gentle leader you keep your hand steady and Molly will do her own reminders.

With Roo I would watch diligently for dogs and take him up into a driveway or yard and put him in a down, stay at my side.  No talking to him except to reinforce the down stay with my voice or hand flat in front of his nose (the stay command),if necessary.  If he remained down and staying he got praise and a treat when the dog was well away.  If he did not down,stay, when the dog was well away we walked on with nothing other than a walk or heel command.   You need to watch diligently for calm, not just staying down and gradually increase from praise for just down, stay to requiring a calm down,stay for praise.  It took a lot of practice with Roo and at first I sometimes needed to put myself directly in front of him to hold the down,stay.

Another tip is to step firmly on the lead with one or both feet with just barely enough slack that there is no tension on the lead.  With your foot between your hand and Molly she will feel less tension from you and you do not need to focus on responding quickly if she moves.  Just keep standing and she will correct herself.  Then you can focus on standing calmly and quietly.  She is looking to you for how to act, keep as calm and confident as you can.  Even though this can be really difficult as you are no doubt feeling anxious and embarrassed - at least I did.

Needless to say constant practice on the down stay with no distractions.  Please remember to not teach come or use come as a release while working on the down,stay.  To release down, stay return to Molly and praise and release.

[Jane, Guinness and Murphy]

Molly is "dog reactive", and I've been dealing with Murphy who is also very dog reactive for several years.  I used a number of  different trainers during the process of trying to address this, and lots of different training techniques and collars.  Initially I thought it was a socialization issue....so we started sending him to Daycare once or twice a week.  He was totally fine there...no reactions at all.  During this process he became very well trained on all his commands, except when we approached another dog when he was leashed.  Eventually I started working with a trainer who has helped me to learn how to deal with this.  This came after he dragged me lunging after another dog....I was covered with scrapes and bruises.  I still work with this trainer occasionally.  We take Murphy to places where we know there will be lots of different dogs to "practice".  Here are a few things I've learned along the way...

-A "dog reactive" dog will never be cured.  With lots of the "right" kind of training the reactions can be managed, but the dog is never going to see another dog when he's on leash and be calm and happy about it.  I kept trying to get to that point with Murphy, and I've learned that this is so much a part of him that it just won't happen.

-Your feelings travel right down the leash.  If you get apprehensive as you see another dog (due to past "reactive episodes"), the dog will sense it and that will make him even more tense.  You must stay calm and confident and if you don't think you can do it at that time for whatever reason, you should turn and walk away.  I found this so difficult.  For a long time I was calm when working with my trainer, but when I was on my own I was very nervous.  I had to turn and walk in the other direction more times than I can count.

-The approach that works best with Murphy is to pull him off to the side and give a sit command.  I turn him away from the approaching dog and ask him to look at me.  If he turns his head to look at the dog I verbally correct...if he still looks I give a little collar correction.  When he IS looking at me I reward....I try to time it with when the other dog is the closest to us.  I use either high value treats or the tennis ball as rewards.  Interestingly I've just learned that one squeak of the tennis ball will always pull him out of his fixated state.  You need to be sure that the dog never gets into that fixated staring because that will ultimately lead to a reaction.  Watch body language closely and do whatever you need to to prevent that stiff, "puffed up" posture.  When we started this process I would pull him way off to the side so there was lots of room between us and the other dog, now I can just pull him a few feet away and he's okay.

-It helps to try to evaluate the approaching dog.  Murphy has a really difficult time when an "unbalanced" dog is approaching.  If the other dog is staring at him or barking, staying calm is extremely tough for Murphy.  If the other dog is calm and submissive we can usually walk right past with no incident....I don't have to pull him over to the side.

-I've learned I need to watch so carefully for other dogs.  If Murphy sees it before I do we have a problem.  After months of working this process and doing really well, a couple weeks ago another dog approached from behind, and I didn't see it.  It surprised both Murph and me and when this dog barked at Murphy, he reacted.  Because I wasn't expecting it I wasn't able to hold onto the leash.  Murphy's greatest fear is losing me, so when I just turned around and walked away he panicked and turned right around to follow me.

-With Murphy the reactiveness is tied to being leashed.  Off-leash he never reacts.  I've started taking him to a forest area in another town where dogs are allowed to be unleashed and he does great here.  Whenever I can, I walk him here so that he can get the exercise he needs without having to be "managed" every minute.

I hope some of this is helpful.  I don't know if you've seen the discussions on the "Doggy Dan" training videos, but there are a few videos devoted to how to deal with dog reactiveness on walks, and I think they are very good.  I'd recommend joining at least for the trial period to view them.  Good luck...I know how difficult and frustrating this can be.

[Lori, Quincy & Frankie]

I was dropping Quincy at day care one morning and another dog that was being checked in lunged at him, growling and acting out.  of course, both dogs were on a leash.  Turns out this dog is one of Quincy's best buddies when they are off leash in the play area!  I was so surprised, but the staff told me he is a different dog on leash versus off.  Good luck with your training! 

[Lucy & AnnaBelle's Mom]

Lots of good advice here and I agree.  I had this issue with Sophie when she was younger and we are working on it (although it isn't that bad) with AnnaBelle.  I've used the Doggy Dan approach which is basically (after you have established his 5 golden rules) when I see we are approaching another dog and I can tell she is gearing up, I stop, put her in a sit, tell her "thank you" for alerting me, then I turn my back on the other dog and walker to let her I there is nothing to be afraid of, I'm not concerned, you don't need to be concerned, I've got it.  So far it works great.    It is only every once in awhile that we have to do this.  Like Jane though, those that sneak up on us aren't always good.

[Jane, Guinness and Murphy]

I forgot to add that you really can't allow the barking in the window.  It's all part of the same state of mind...protective, territorial.  My guys get one bark...then I go "check out the situation" and let them see that I'm in charge....Doggy Dan suggests you say "thank you" (I don't always do that)...and if they don't stop they go to time out.  That has worked well...Murph actually puts himself in "time out".

[Maryann,Roo and Tigger]

Roo is very reactive like Murphy and he, too, will put himself in time out.  I think Roo really appreciates his open crate to "time out".  It is like he is no longer responsible and can relax.

[Kyoko]

My Charlie is the same way. Despite of years of training and obedience classes, titles, etc... she continued to be reactive towards new dog, people, etc...  I resulted in medication which I was never a fan of.  She is much better off now, with continuous practice and training, along with the medication. But it takes her effort to keep herself from reacting. I can see her consciously trying to ignore.....