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In the long and continuing saga of conquering Stew's guarding, I'm really confused and unsure what type of training to use.

1) private trainer told me to desensitize Stew to me approaching with the dropping treats method, then slowly condition for me to reach and grab something. I've done that a lot, Stew seems to respond and I can walk right next to him, he'll drop what he has & if I distract him by making him eat a treat a little bit away from the item, I can reach and grab it. If he tries to get on the couch or does attention seeking behaviors, I'm to stop him and walk towards him, getting in his space until he backs off.

2) my aunt told me I need to assert myself as alpha. She told me to startle Stew (penny can, loud clap, loud slap of a piece of paper) if he won't get off the couch or give something up and make him get off or drop what he has, then make him come to me. She said that's better than an alpha roll and you aren't doing anything physically to the dog, but showing him that's unacceptable. My aunt is VERY concerned that Stew seems to be "alpha aggressive" and growls, snaps and has bitten me. She told me if I don't assert myself as alpha that maybe I shouldn't have Stew and he's not a good match for me, that I need to get over a fear of getting bitten and get a more docile dog.

My big question is, the trainer told me growling is good, in that it alerts you that your dog is uncomfortable. I need to let him know he doesn't need to feel anxious and desensitize him. My aunt said her dogs never growl at her and she is alpha. When you all say that you don't tolerate growling or your dogs know that you can take anything from them, HOW do you do that? I don't want to take anything from Stew by force, as I don't want to be bitten and don't want him to start freaking anytime I approach.

I KNOW Stew is great dog. He's housebroken, rings bells to go out, pee/poop on command, does fine in the crate (that's another discussion-my neighbor was apparently ONLY having a bad day and it's NOT an issue at all, so all that was for naught) not food aggressive, sits for almost everything, waits at doors/for food, obeys commands & tricks (right/left paw, down, sit, high five, sit pretty, bow, crawl). Pretty AWESOME for my first dog and I'm doing it by myself. I just need to get this guarding down.

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I'm starting to be convinced that I'm doing this all wrong. I can't really do any trades with Stew because he doesn't drop what he has. If he does, I can't pick it up, without him going for it again. If he drops a ball, toy etc., sometimes I can reach and pick it up while he looks at me. Other times, I need to stretch my arm out the opposite way from the item, to be able to pick up the toy. Unless, if I do throw something for him to get, I need to be sitting on the ground, so it's easier for me to grab the item, rather than bending all the way down.

I've never taken anything from his mouth by force, so I'm not sure what is causing the guarding. If I wasn't somewhat of his leader, wouldn't he be more disobedient? Not waiting for things, walking ahead on a leash? I'm looking to find a more budget friendly trainer, I really like the trainer, but $500 for 5 1 hour individual sessions is very steep. I'm considering getting into another obedience class, I want to start one that focuses on the more advanced commands, so that I can be helping Stew, but spending less money.

Riley has never been 100% disobedient but I KNOW she doubted my leadership at times and it showed in how she responded to me. Heck, I even doubted my leadership. LOL She would respond totally different to my husband who never backed down or showed any intimidation. I never could have handled her on my own without my husband here. At first I was scared to be alone with her but now I'm happy to spend time alone with her.

Are you saying that if you sit in front of Stew and offer him a treat while saying DROP that he won't drop the item?  If so, I'd find a better treat, something he will "trade up" to.  Maybe a treat that takes a bit of time to chew would be appropriate if you are afraid that he will after the item and/or your hand.

Have you already gone through 5 sessions with the trainer?  By now, he/she should be answering these questions and evaluation Stew.  I know it is pricey but I don't think you will get what you need from a group obedience class.

I can sense your anxiety and wish I can do more!  Maybe give yourself a break from resource guarding issues for a day or two.  Put away anything that is dangerous for him.

How close can you get to Stew when he has a bone before he growls? Would he be able to smell a treat in your hand/could you get close enough with the good smelling treat to entice him to willingly trade for a piece of cheese or steak? The smell of cheese or steak makes Oliver drop any toy, sometimes it helps to show them that you've got something better.

Jess, in my opinion a group obedience class is not going to help you with this. This is a single behavioral issue that needs focus. But do you really need 5 lessons?  Maybe 2-3 private sessions in your home? Then take the advanced course.  We rescued a min dachshund once. I could never take a bone from him.  He would bite me. Yet my husband could walk right up and take that bone --or anything else away from him. Quietly without a word. Fear never crossed his mind and that's exactly why he could do it and I couldn't.  To add insult to injury, I was the one who mostly took care of Dasher . I'm sure Dasher could sense my fear and that's why he knew he had the upper hand.  

I started taking things out of Finn's mouth when he was 9 weeks old. Balls, toys, bones, shoes.  Then I'd give them back -- not the shoes :) Eventually he learned how to give them to me.   

Jess maybe there is someone from DK who is near you. Perhaps an experienced person could get together with you and Stewart and just give you some support.
What a great idea! There must be some DKers close by?
I understand the Trainer comes at a high price, but you definitely won't get the time and experience in a group setting. Those classes are not designed for problematic situations , but more everyday training techniques.

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