Specific purpose of rake vs slicker & questions on coat type...

[Eric & Rufus]

I am still trying to decide on the best grooming tools for Rufus. Right now I am using a MGT poodle comb with coarse teeth, a stainless Andis comb with medium/narrow teeth, and a CC T-Brush. I tend to use them in that order, but I'm not sure the T-brush does anything after running the combs through.

After only a couple weeks of neglecting my grooming duties, Rufus had enough matting that he had to be clipped shorter than I had done previously. I normally use a 3/4HT blade and had to go down to a #4 on body, and #5 and #7 on the neck and chest respectively.

I decided that not only do I need to be more committed to the weekly brushing, but I need something that gets the undercoat out better. I really don't know if "undercoat" is the appropriate term because I still don't really understand all the various terms and adjectives when describing coats. Rufus is a Giant Schnauzer/Standard Poodle cross, do either of those dogs even have a true undercoat? The hair that I am talking about on Rufus is the stuff that gathers closer to his skin and seems to cause the mats. It is usually gray, or at least lighter in color than the rest of his hair. Is it undercoat or just old, dead hair that hasn't been getting removed? Plus, Rufus has a lot of silver and gray (his mom was a salt and pepper GS), so I don't know if the color is the best judge on whether or not it is old coat.

As far as wavy, fleece, wool, etc. - Rufus' coat is softer when it is shorter, and as it grows out it becomes more harsh feeling. I'm assuming this is the Schnauzer coming out, but I don't think the individual hairs are thick enough to call "wiry". Also, as Rufus' coat grows out it, forms into dreadlocks. It is not as corded as a puli, but definitely twisted strands. Of course that is un-brushed, if I brush him then his hair becomes what I would call frizzy or fluffy until I mist him with water.

Anyways, on to my question about grooming tools. From reading manufacturers' descriptions on rakes and slickers, it seems they are both are meant to remove undercoat. Is there any difference in purpose between these two items? Do they serve the same purpose, but for different coat types? I was just about to order a flexible slicker (not shelling out the money for a Les Pooch, so was going to go for the MGT brand), but now I'm wondering if a rake would work better when his coat is short and when it is long.

Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide!

[Nancy, Ned, Clancy, and Charlie]

Eric, Ned gets a dreadlock type corkscrew curl when unbrushed. I have used rakes on Ned also.  They didn't work as well overall because the rake doesn't do as much as the slicker.  I have used two rakes - one was for undercoat and the teeth rotated,  and one was just a cheapie.  The one for undercoat did actually pull Ned's fur out and he cried - obviously that one got deep sixed. The other one was okay but it really didn't do a thorough job and he still got mats. Ned's coat is so thick that pin brushes, even good quality ones, break down.  Now that Ned is almost 5, I find that I can brush less often yet get the same result.

I will be interested in your reports on what you try and what the results are.  Brushing and combing are such a pain that I am always hoping to find a secret shortcut.

[Eric & Rufus]

Nancy, the rake I have bookmarked sounds a lot like the one you tried. It has a double row of rotating teeth and is marketed as an undercoat rake. I guess part of why I was considering a rake is because it seems like it would be easier on the skin. It just seems to me that any wire brush, no matter how expensive, would scratch more than a rake.

[Barb @ Gemstone Labradoodles]

Slicker brushes and combs get out the dead coat most easily for my dogs. Schauzers have a double coat and for show, the wiry part is stripped or pulled out, leaving the soft shorter coat. Poodles also have wiry and soft hair so it is hard to tell where your dog got his coat from. You could try stipping out the coarse hairs if they show up on top. In a schnauzer, they are not well rooted so this is not painful.

Whichever parent your dog got its coat from, you still need to deal with dead hair whether it is an undercoat or not. I find the Les Poochs brush the most effective slicker brush. They will not scratch if you use them properly.

[Nancy, Ned, Clancy, and Charlie]

Thanks for explaining this so well. 

[Eric & Rufus]

Thanks Barb. When you talk about using the slicker brush the proper way (so that it does not scratch), exactly what do you mean? I do know about "line brushing", and I do that with the pin brush, and to a lesser extent, the combs. Do you line brush with a slicker as well? I know I have to get under the topcoat somehow, but I'm not sure how to keep from scratching the skin with a slicker if I'm line brushing.

[Barb @ Gemstone Labradoodles]

Top to guidelines for using slicker brushes. Especially Les Poochs ones that have longer tynes than most.

1. The brush must be flat to the skin. Think of a guy who can lie on a bed of nails. Could he lie on one nail?  No. If you tilt the brush, a single tyne, which is very sharp, will poke the skin. Yours or theirs.

2. Brush softly. Quality brushes are designed to save groomers arms. They are ergonomic. Wearing out the wrist, arm or shoulder are the most common reasons for groomers to have pain or even quit grooming. A light pressure gets the job done. Run a Les Poochs brush on your own skin. That's how hard you should push on it. The drag without extra pressure is tiring enough on the groomers body if you do it all day.

[Eric & Rufus]

Thanks Barb, those two tips make perfect sense!