Labradoodle & Goldendoodle Forum
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Yes you are right about shaping behaviours as a very good way to work with clicker training. You can also capture behaviours (you click when the dog does something that you like). This was the way that I taught my dog to do a "play bow" on cue. I knew that she tended to get in this position when she first came out of her crate in the morning so I was ready, clicker in hand, to capture the behaviour when she did it. It took a little longer because she doesn't just play bow all the time, but she does it on cue beautifully now. If I use luring when first trying to elicit a behaviour I only do this once or twice as a start. One of the first behaviours that I usually work on is clicking when the dog just looks at me as it is hard to get the dog to do much if they are not focused on you. Most dogs new to clicker training are not used to the idea of offering behaviours but with experience they will offer more and more it becomes easier for them to do so over time and with experience. As we all know, every dog is such an individual so how to begin has a lot to do with the dog. Puppies in particular burn out so fast that I usually let the puppy let me know what they like to do best and start with that. If they are very mellow and down a lot then this can be a great place to start, but if they are really active I might not start with down.
When working on getting a dog to offer a lot of behaviours, a favourite game is the "101 things to do with a box game". Basically a box is placed on the floor and the dog earns a click for every new interaction with the box. This may be things like looking at the box, moving towards the box, touching the box with the nose or foot, circling the box, etc. You don't litarally have them do 101 things. I usually like to keep it down to 2 minutes or 20 clicks depending on the dog as you don't want them to get bored or shut down.
Yes, you can train your dog without going to class. But if you have never trained an animal or a dog or a doodle before, classes are going to make it a really really really lot easier.
You do not have to agree with everything a trainer says and does to benefit from their expertise. I have trained several dogs and am a trainer junkie. I love to take classes from different trainers as I pick up tips, techniques and ideas from all of them. Also sometimes a pair of experienced eyes can spot immediately why something is not going well.
I encourage you to go to classes, as many as you can afford, with your puppy. However, if you choose not to, and train entirely from books and videos - here are my three tips for what they are worth: 1) train two short (10-15) minute sessions a day, with a puppy give breaks every 1-2 minutes during the 15 minutes, 2) start early (soon after adopting - a few days to two weeks) and stay with it for at least 2 years, 3 years is better, 3) train everyday, all day in short 1-2 minute sessions as the opportunity arises.
I am so glad that you have found a good training class. You are right that puppy socialization (with humans, new environments, other dogs and anything else you can think of) is so very important and for optimal results should ideally be done while the puppy is really young. In addition a good trainer will help see the little mistakes that we all make and give you tips for working with your individual puppy.
To help prevent separation issues try to remember the following:
1) Do not fuss over your puppy when you depart or return.
2) Try to change departure routines regularly. It doesn't hurt to do some of the things that you might normally do before you leave without actually leaving. You might pick up your car keys and walk out the door and then come right back in. Pick up your handbag and walk around with it without actually leaving. Go out of the door to leave the house and then come right back in. Put on your coat and leave it on for a bit. Whatever it is that you routinely do before going out, practice at times without actually leaving so you do not build up associations.
3) When you return home, ignore your puppy for a bit before greeting him/her. If your puppy needs to go out immediately upon your return, then just hook on your leash and calmly walk (or carry as needed) out without talking to your puppy or making a big deal over him/her.
4) Vary the time that you leave. Make it just 5 minutes sometimes in addition to longer trips out. If your puppy is very young, do not leave him/her very long periods of time if you can avoid it. Have a dog walker come in until the puppy can handle not going out for a longer period of time.
5) Give the puppy something to chew on and/or a stuffed Kong toy when you go out.
6) Make sure that your puppy is confined in a safe chew-proof area when left alone. This could be a crate (if not too long a period) or an exercise pen set-up. There are good pictures of this set up in Dr. Ian Dunbar's book Before and After Getting Your Puppy.
I'm so glad to hear you found a good training class.
For separation issues - crate or pen your puppy in a room occasionally even while you are home.
When you come home do not get puppy immediately
Never rescue a crying whining puppy - presuming of course he is safely penned and could not be caught in something or hurting himself in some way.
When you unpen puppy restrain yourself from a lavish greeting -this is so hard, so very hard. Just a gentle hi there as you take him out to pee and then go on about your business. When he quiets, even a little, then you can start to greet him like you wished you could have - the puppy will think of course that this is play, but will not associate with you coming home, but with his waiting quietly near you.
Do you have a name for puppy yet?
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