Labradoodle & Goldendoodle Forum
Hello, I've posted this in the puppy group, but figured would try here as well. Iam really struggling and need some help!
Our 7 month Goldendoodle Walter who we love to death, is plain a simple, a rascal! The biggest issue I'm having is with walks. He's not much a leash puller, which is great, but he will get in modes where he'll start humping me, jumping up on me, biting the leash, and biting me. I've tried EVERYTHING. I pull the leash tight and freeze, but that does not deter, he'll grab and bite at my hands and mittens (has torn many pair), continue jumping up, etc. I'll stand still and that has no impact. I've trie the Calm Freeze (from Doggy Dan), but he just whips his head around and bites my hand. I've tried walking slowly - then he humps from behind. I've tried going in command mode, sit, down, touch, etc. and he'll do it but right back to the bad behavior afterward. I'm at a loss, and so bummed because he NEEDS walks and likes them, but this is unbearable. Sometimes he's fine, and other times, he is like this the whole walk practically.
He is also just still so bitey in general, especially when playing or wanting to play, and I thought he would have grown out of this by now. I've tried the Pet Corrector, time-outs, etc. and nothing has worked. Has anybody else had these issues??? I'm in some desperate need of help!
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I feel your pain, Natalie- at 7 months I was ready to give Teddy back- ha, not really- but it was definitely a trying time. He is almost 2 now and, while his, what I like to call bucking bronco routine, during walks has subsided, he still gets them every now and then. What I've found is that when he hasn't had enough exercise/stimulation he has them more frequently. I've tried all the things you've mentioned too and some additional things you might want to try are: 1. exercise first- when I play some fetch with Teddy in the backyard first, he is much more calm on his walks, 2. bring a toy- this worked for a short time but not so much now (maybe you'll have better luck as I've seen other dogs doing it successfully) - I would bring either a stick or a favorite toy for him to carry in his mouth and sometimes stop and play during walks. But really, the thing that has worked best (because I don't always have time to tire him out before walks!) is my attitude. I used to freak out and get really nervous when he went into his crazy routine, but now I'm ready for them and have a plan in place. I typically will do the turn around and freeze thing, sometimes step on his leash so he's not able to jump up, and use a firm no/leave it. Because I feel more confident, I think Teddy knows I mean business and it's not playtime. Since he's my first dog, it took a little while though to get to this point! I will look forward to hearing what others have to say- but in the meantime- hang in there and just be consistent. The doodles are worth it! :)
I think this is great advice. My first thought when I read the post is "This puppy needs more exercise, and by "exercise", I mean full out running off leash every day.
But it really is about attitude, as you've seen, and that has to carry into everything in the dog's life, not just walks. There's a reason that this group is called Experiences, Challenges, and Mindsets.
Confidence and consistency are so important.
I agree with all of this. I'm wondering what you've done in terms of obedience training? Seven months is the perfect age to do some serious training before any of the bad behaviors are reinforced and become more difficult to manage. Walter needs to know how you expect him to behave on a walk....you need to teach him HOW to go for a walk. This means you'll need some structure.....some people train a strict heel while others train more of a loose leash approach, but either of these has a structure and expectations. I think it is so much easier to learn how to do this when you're working in a class or with a trainer. I also agree that the walk is an extension of your relationship....if he sees you as his leader he will be much less likely to jump and bite. You mention Doggy Dan...have you implemented his basic "rules"? They are very similar to the "Nothing In Life Is Free" program. Exercise is key, but so is leadership.
Walter has been through Obedience Classes 1 and 2 (each 6 weeks long) and did great in both of those, and we did work on leash walking in the 2nd classes. He actually always did very well in class but seems to have forgotten how to behave!
We are working on the rules, 1 and 2 we have down, but the not greeting at the door we are working on (as I actually love to greet him when I get home!)
We could get him in more classes, but most of that stuff he already knows and exhibits (all basic commands, even tricks, etc) so I'm afraid would be a waste of time and money to repeat.....
Thanks all for your advice!
Well it's great that you have done this formal training with him. What do you think is different about the way he walks when you're in class versus when you walk him now....are you doing anything different?
The Nothing In Life Is Free approach is invaluable for dealing with these issues. Here's a great explanation that Jane posted:
Nicole gave excellent advice. Confidence, a plan, step on leash close enough to collar, so he must lay down. Speaking of leash, just because he is not much of a leash puller does not mean that he does not need a collar that controls him without injuring him. Tigger walks in a prong collar which, since he is seven and has had a LOT of training and practice he rarely feels, but when I need it, it is there. Roo walks in a gentle leader, it just works best for him. He was in a prong collar for a long time, but we got down to the last thing - jumping up on people and it just wouldn't do the job. Voila - the gentle leader, almost overnight success. He isn't crazy about it, but he likes to "go" enough that he will sit and let me put it on with only a pouty look.
A regular collar or a martingale collar or a choke chain can really hurt tracheas. Choke chains are just plain hard to use properly, a regular collar is not a correcting collar or even really a very good collar for control, because of the choking and trachea issue. A prong collar is not mean, it just sits quietly sits there, until needed to give a quick small correction. It does not need to sit properly in any special place like a choke collar to be both effective and safe.
I have never found freezing, ignoring, etc to be helpful in situations where my dog is doing something I don't want him to do. I once, long ago, read something that has really stuck with me. I wish I could credit the author by I just don't remember. It goes like this.... in dealing with your child, what would you do if they were about to run into a busy street? Would you turn away? Sit quietly hoping for the best? Yell at them? No, you would run like crazy, screaming, trying to save them. If the behavior is unwanted, dangerous, annoying, STOP the behavior. This applies equally well to a dog.
Most of what you are describing is typical puppy attention getting behavior. So give him attention, stop what he is doing.
You are not being mean, you are being kind. You are teaching him to be a well behaved canine member of this world.
It takes enormous patience, time, and consistency to teach a dog manners. And like a child he will go through stages that make you wonder if he is really your dog. Fortunately, a dog takes a much shorter time than a child to be "mature".
For most dogs that is about three years old and even then "there will be times". Just this week Tigger, Roo and I had a toilet paper romp. It had been the holidays, then raining and, getting Roo on his heart med schedule and Tigger was just plain "over it". He went in and stole several rolls of tp and then let them roll down the stairs. I just laughed and we all chased each other and strung tp all over the house. We were all pooped when we finished. We had a good time though. For some reason I was the only one who picked up the tp though. Worth it,
P.S. I moved the toilet paper to a more secure location.
just stay with it, get a good collar, some lessons maybe, and remember you are the adult
7 months is still a very trying age because they are so full of energy and playfulness.
I tried so many different training philosophies, (many are mentioned in your note and others) and the only thing that has consistently gotten his attention is when I go into full on alpha mom mode to show my disapproval, and ultimately, he just doesn't like to disappoint me so he stops whatever he's doing and sits and looks up at me in a submissive posture.
Full on alpha mom is me gowling a firm "huh unh!" in a deep dog growl as I stand firmly over him with hands on hip and furrowed brow. Sounds very silly and dramatic, but it has worked wonders for 3 years. I'm just very consistent and use my growl for all corrections. Sometimes a simple growl will get him to immediately lie back down if he starts to beg for food or something.
My 5 month old is just starting the jumping. We use a spray water bottle. I don't even had to spray it. Just have it in my hands and say NO.
I have one in every room!
Seven months is still quite young for an energetic puppy. My ALD was super active until almost 2 years old. He seems to respond to lots of exercise and needs to be out somewhere every day. It keeps us getting our exercise also. We have many kinds of leashes - pronged, choke chain, halters, and a BTL (bike tow leash). The obedience class encouraged use of little treats and he loves that in class. If my pockets have treats in them, however, he and other dogs at the dog park seem to know and bug me constantly. So, I usually do not carry treats unless we are in a training class. The dog park is a great place for him to run and run until he is "runned out" and I have even been asked to take him out of the park. Nothing really upsets me, but he could be a challenge to a sensitive person. Stay with it. He will calm down and you will find what works for you and him.
It also might be worth hiring a trainer to come and do a private walking lesson with you. A lot of this is puppy energy, but sometimes the training is more for you than for the dog. If you are armed with the right tools, you'll feel more in control, and your dog will sense that. We hired a trainer because Lexi started getting really anxious every time we would pass another dog on a leash at around 18 months. She was lunging, growling and barking. The trainer spent two full hours with us. She brought us a no-pull leash, and she taught us a leash hold that gives the dog some leeway, but enables you to reel the dog in if the dog begins to get unruly. In particular, she showed us how important it is for the dog to pay attention to you, and how to look for the signs that your dog is losing his/her connection with you. There was a sign each time, and we were missing it. Faster breathing, pulling ahead, snuffing, stiffening her body. The second we see the first sign that she is getting excited, we implement the training methods. None are painful. They are all methods to get her attention back on her human so that she can listen. Lexi still reacts every time she sees another dog - the trainer didn't get rid of that - but we now catch it before she gets out of control.
Hi there - I love the name of your dog by the way - Walter was high on my list of names too!!
Just wanted to let you know that you are definitely not alone and your description sounded very familiar. Kobe is turning 1 next week and we went through a lot of what you are describing. Lots of good advice here - certainly exercise is key for these dogs. One interesting thing we noticed is that when we walked the dog with two (or more) people on the walk, he would be a lot better - he seemed to want to keep up so he would not bother with the jumping or other bad behavior. (I know this is only practical on weekends for most people but just wanted to mention it). Also spraying the leash with vinegar beforehand helped as that is the one smell he can't stand (we keep a spray bottle of vinegar & water) so you may even want to spray yourself!
Our dog can also be "bitey" (especially during play as you mentioned) which the trainer blamed on my husband as he tended to wrestle with him during play from an early age. One of the things they suggested is if any of the dog's teeth come into any contact with skin, you should "scream like a baby" - this high pitched yell seems to startle them and they don't like it. That has helped. Good luck and hang in there...
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