Labradoodle breeding

[Discussing Labradoodles & Goldendoodles]

Can someone give me more information using their labradoodle as a stud? I have a male, F1B cream, fleece coat labradoodle. His mother was a white F1 labradoodle (50/50 lab and poodle) and his caller was a standard apricot poodle. He's currently 8 months old and we're trying to decide whether to have him neutered or not. He's such a great dog, has such a gentle and mellow personality yet so much fun and is super playful when he wants to be. I've never had a dog that was used to breed but because he's such a great dog, and quite attractive, I'm wondering about keeping the option open. Does anyone have advice or somewhere to direct me to how to get into breeding? TIA

[Karen, Jasper and Jackdoodle]

Hi Rocco's Mom. Here on DK we take breeding dogs fairly seriously. The majority of us are not fans of breeding your pet dog because he's a nice dog. We advocate only supporting breeders who are following the highest standards...because if they are not, why are they bringing more puppies into this world? There isn't a real shortage.  Several of our members involved in doodle rescue can attest to this. 

No reputable breeder sells a puppy without a spay/neuter contract, unless they are selling a puppy with breeding rights. So the first question would be, did you purchase your pup with breeding rights? If not, you would be in violation of your breeder's contract, assuming that he/she had one.

Also, a nice temperament and good looks are not enough to warrant breeding any individual dog. Foremost is health, and that requires genetic health testing at the age of two years. (Nobody should be breeding any dog before the age of 2, period.) As mentioned in our DK guidelines on What to Look for in a Breeder:

 A responsible breeder only breeds dogs that have passed rigorous health testing.
This means MORE than yearly vet check-ups. What health testing has been done on the parent dogs? Two dogs may seem perfectly healthy on the outside and may even pass their yearly checkups at the vet with flying colors--but a lot of diseases are not visible to the naked eye. Without rigorous health testing, a number of conditions can be passed down to puppies.

For starters, ask to see PROOF that they have passing OFA or PennHIP hip scores on both parents. Then ask for proof of eye clearance either through CERF or PRA. CERF must be done annually and PRA is a genetic test that need only be done once for clearance. Von Willebrands disease is a bleeding disorder similar to hemophilia...poodles have it more often than retrievers, but it can be found in Goldens too...so ask for genetic clearance for this disease too. Beyond that many do basic genetic testing for all sorts of things and of course annual vet clearances...but just vet clearances aren't enough. Breeders bring new dogs in to the world...if they don't care to do all they can to ensure optimum health...go to someone else who does.

Read this article for more information on the potential health problems in doodles and why choosing a breeder carefully is critical: Health Problems in Doodles

A responsible breeder does not breed a dam or stud before the age of two.

Although some health tests can be done during puppyhood, others only give preliminary results. Consider also that there is not a test for every disease and some conditions don't really show up until a dog is a mature adult.  These are good reasons to avoid buying a puppy from a breeder who bred either of its parents before the age of two.  

Also, are your prepared to offer a decent health warranty on your pups, and to take them back if someone can't keep one?

These are things most of us would require:
A responsible breeder offers a decent health warranty.
Most warranties are called "Health Guarantees" but for the sake of clarity I want to make sure everyone understands a breeder can't truly 'guarantee' everything. But they can give you a warranty. Every breeder should offer the short term health warranty (3 to 5 days) on basic puppy health. But a truly responsible breeder who stands behind what he/she produces will also offer a minimum two year health warranty on the puppy you purchase. Anything less than that isn't very helpful because many hereditary conditions take time to develop. Read the health warranty as if your puppy has now developed hip dysplasia at one year of age. What compensation would you want? Ideally, you would get monetary reimbursement for at least half the money you spent on the dog to help with vet bills. Would you really want to return the dog you now love? Probably not! Would reimbursement with a new puppy really help you when you have major vet bills? Not one bit! So look carefully at what the health warranty offers you and think about how well that will sit with you if you should need it.

What is the breeders return policy?
While a puppy is certainly not the same as a toaster oven or other item that one would return to a store--if for any reason if you are unable to keep your puppy a good breeder will ALWAYS take it back. This shows that the breeder has taken responsibility for the puppy he/she has brought into this world and wants to prevent any puppies from ending up in a shelter. So check the contract to ensure that the breeder is always willing to take a puppy back if necessary. I have known a number of doodle owners who due to life circumstances could no longer keep their labradoodle or goldendoodle. Their breeders refused to help either because they were 'just a family breeder' or didn't want to take responsibility at all. Now don't get me wrong...don't expect a breeder to pay you for your doodle if you can't/won't keep it a year later. But a good breeder will help you out and take the puppy to rehome it if life changes course for you. THAT'S RESPONSIBILITY, CARE, and COMMITMENT and a breeder that is worth supporting!


I would  respectfullyask that you please consider these factors before deciding to breed your dog. 

Read more here: http://www.doodlekisses.com/notes/What_To_Look_for_In_a_Breeder#ixz...

[Lynda Kamrath]

I totally agree with you, Karen.  Breeding is so much more than having a great dog to start with.  All pets should be neutered and spayed.  Animals that make it into the shelters or SPCA have to be neutered or spayed before they can be adopted.   And there are great animals available at your local shelter.

[Lori, Daphne, Lucy & Pippa]

Thats all wonderful information Karen! I cant tell you how many times I have seen this question on FB and was not armed with specific information...only my own opinions.

[Karen, Jasper and Jackdoodle]

All of it comes directly from the What to Look for in a Breeder discussion. :) 

[Lynda Kamrath]

First of all, you need to have all types of testing done.  It is difficult to get your dog certified as a stud dog and then to find the bitches to breed him with.  I have had beautiful dogs with all the testing done on their parents, but I would not think of breeding because there are too many unwanted pets available.  All my males were neutered as puppies, and my female was spayed at 6 months.  Beautiful dogs, but I don't want to be a breeder.  And as for neighbors, it is so much more friendly to have spayed and neutered pets.  Intact pets can be an annoyance to neighborhood pets and people.

[Karen, Jasper and Jackdoodle]

Amen, Lynda. 

I hate to think what would happen if all of us here with gorgeous, sweet dogs decided to breed them. :) 

[Ginny Nightingale]

All good info--I would add that no reputable breeder would use this dog as a stud without rigorous testing and even then, they usually have their own carefully selected stud dogs or use those of another reputable breeder.

Anything less is "backyard breeding" which can lead to lower standards in the pups--such as poor health, poor coat types, etc. We do not condone that.