puppy biting

[Kathy Brady]

My 10 week old pup--whom we've had for 2 weeks-- has started biting me. Mostly it's just nipping, typical puppy play, but at times, he growls and then bites me. I've tried yelping (I'm not really good at that), but he's not the least apprehensive about continuing. Does anyone have any tried and true suggestions?
Kathy Brady
New Milford, CT.

[Sandy]

I tried the lemon juice technique today. Toby had become a nipping machine in the last four days or so (he's 10 weeks old). Nothing else seemed to be working. I put some lemon juice in an old honey squirt bottle. I set him up - got down to where he's usually trying to chomp me. With my juice handy, I shook a couple of drops in his mouth. He sat back, licked and licked, and looked at me like "What did you do THAT for?" I gave him a drink of water, and told him "No biting." He was fine - actually licked me after that. He tried it again half an hour later, same thing. Later on all I had to say was No Bite, and show him the container. I'll have to train the rest of my family, but I hope this is the solution that works for us!

[Debbie and Thomas]

I am new to this site-we have a 16 week goldendoodle and he was absolutely perfect for two weeks-then the biting started.At first I thought it would only last a week or so-tried the bitter apple and he(Thomas) wasn't phased a bit by this stuff. I did not spray it at him though-just on our hands or the things he was not supposed to chew on. A spray bottle of water? Heard that was a miracle cure-not for him-he liked it and would try to attack the bottle and bark at it. Next-we tried a can full of coins and shook it at him . It startled him (and us to be honest) for 3 seconds then back he went to the biting and frolicking. We do not want to break his puppy spirit-we love him so much. But he has ripped my clothes and I am covered with scars. After three weeks of obedience school-he is the star of the class. Things are getting better- but some evenings he still gets nuts. He has had a lot of exercise, food, treats, so we tie him on a training leash that is 16 ft long and keep it so that he cannot reach us when he gets like this. I am going to the store tomorrow to buy the lemon! He is so smart that I am sure he will get the jist of this technique. Hopefully they do grow out of this. I think a lot of this is boredom but you cannot entertain them all the time. I guess they have to learn what "down time" means, just like children and babies, right?? It actually makes me feel better to know that other doodles do this-we love this dog dearly but were beginning to think we had a little "monster" on our hands. Great advice and thanks from Toronto.

[Tegan]

When Kali was little she was very mouthy, when she hurt anyone we would yelp very loudly (and rather high pitched) and then ignore her. The cold shoulder works very well with her, you can literally turn your back on the pup and completely ignore them for a few minutes (resist the urge to look at them if they are sulking!). I was told that dogs do this to each other or even their people when they are unhappy about something. I don't know if that would work for your pup, but it certainly worked for Kali. She's 9 months old now and she doesn't mouth anymore and if we're playing and she accidentally nips me I yelp and she sits down right away and looks up at me. It's really cute, she looks so worried until I tell her I'm ok.

[2m8pwebq0ydky]

I got to say the lemon drops sound great!I often use water spray bottles to train each litter for their new families.
I always teach my puppy parents to put their pups on theirs backs immediately that they do something that is unwanted with a very deep growl, not a loud yap. If you simulate what the pups mother would do you will have more success.Play for pups is also the way they work out who is the pack leader, if you react like a sibling you will get treated like one and you will be challenged all of the time for leadership, if you act like the dominant dog, you will be respected.
A mother dog will flip her pup over onto its back, she will stand over it and give a very low, deep growl.Also a firm grab to the neck works, you are simulating the mothers nip by doing this.
After this ignore them for a minute or two then return to your game. Repeat this as necessary. I have trained quite a few dogs, what it always comes back to is people forget that as beautiful the breed is you still own a dog.
You are teaching your dog to respect people by simulating just what their mother would have done and believe me they will adore you for it.

[Leslie and Halas]

What's strange about Halas is that he is pretty submissive. He has what I call his floppy puppy pose, where he kind of rolls onto his side / back and lifts one of his back legs up kind of exposing his belly. He does this when I'm leaving the house (or he thinks I'm leaving), when I have to clean his ears or beard, and other various reasons. But when he would get to playing too rough and nipping, it was hard to catch him to get him on his back. He moves so quickly, and if I lunge to catch him, he thinks it's a game. So it was kind of puzzling why he would be so submissive most of the time, and then get so cranky later. When he was really cranky, if I turned my back on him, he would sometimes nip me in the butt. Ouch!

[2m8pwebq0ydky]

I am lol, thats o.k right??Puppies youve got to love them. He is really smart, you have a very clever little doodle. You need to use this to your advantage, he sound like he is going to play you every chance he can. That is terrific from a training point of view. Dont chase him, that is what we wants. just wait his curiosity will get the better of him.When he comes back play again but be ready so that he cant run away. Then flip him on his back when he does nip. But dont chase him.I would really suggest start his training, begin with rewards and slowly back off them onto you patting him and cooing him for his reward.Or a ball game for reward, this the challenge finding what he responds to for reward. All dogs are different and their likes are different.
You have a very SMART doodle, you could do great things with him. Think out side of the box.
Keep me posted he sound great!

[Leslie and Halas]

Well, I've been using the lemon juice, and that has worked with the nipping. He hardly even tries to do it any more. I can read his body language, so if he starts to get nippy, I just mention the lemon and he stops. I'll tell him to get a toy, and he'll go grab something and we'll continue playing. I play on the floor with him as much as I can. If he's rolling around, I rub his belly, etc., just to reward him for playing nicely. He does love to play chase, so if he steals something, I ignore him if it isn't something dangerous. If I have to follow him, I go towards him calmly, telling him to give it back, and he'll usually roll into floppy puppy and let me take it. Then I'll start a chase game with one of his toys. Yes, doodles all know how cute their little faces are, and they definitely use that to their advantage.

We're in obedience training, and I'd like to get his CGC some day. Doodles seem to bring smiles to people's faces, so it seems a shame to waste it. Our biggest hurdle is going to be sitting calmly to be greeted. He's getting better, but he still gets pretty excited when he sees people.

[Leslie and Halas]

It's ok to laugh about him biting my butt.

[Tina]

Our trainer suggested something similiar. They have a three tier approach. At a first nip you would squirt the puppy on the nose with water. If that didnt work, and they were still nippy after a few days you would add a bit of vinegar to the water, and squirt them on the nose. If that didnt work you got binaca breath spray. Each time the puppy nips you give a small squirt in the back of their throat.

Macee can still be a bit nippy with the kids. When they play too excitedly sometimes she grabs their shirts. We found if you put a toy in her mouth, everyone can run around and have fun, and she generally leaves her mouth off of them.

[2m8pwebq0ydky]

Thats great Tina, every trainer has a little different approach which is fantastic. All dogs are different what works on one doesnt necessarily work on another. The spray bottles are one of the best ways to train, I love them, however I do know some dogs that dont care whats in the bottle as long as it is wet it is fun.
I love the puppy stage, they learn so much at this time just remeber they really need a leader.
At the moment I am working with my youngest, she is 8 months now, her naughtiest habit is chasing birds. She has just started this, it is no good when she is off leash. Dont want her running off after the seagulls.
She cocks her head to the right as if to say "come on, I am gorgeous I can do anything I want"
Then rubs her nose with her paw, very hard to correct them then.

[Scott Chalkley]

As a breeder, I have been teaching our pups at a very early age not to bite or nip so they get used to not biting humans. I have been yiping, turning away or replacing my skin with a chew toy ever since they started gumming me. The pups I have are 6 weeks old now and are putting anything and everything in their mouths to ease the pain of their teeth coming in. Once they relieve that pain they associate that relief and pleasant feeling with whatever they are biting.

Most of the studies that I have read on puppy development say primarily what everyone else has said on here about yiping and turning away. Trainers/Whisperers out there say the same thing but they add that you should never wrestle with your pup. When rough housing with your pup they get used to biting, nipping and growling for fun at first but then they start to associate winning the wrestling match with you as a form of dominance (i.e. they are in charge). So it's best to not wrestle with your pup even though it is fun and cute at the beginning it becomes a very bad habit to break later on.

Socializing your pup with other dogs can help with this. Puppies learn from their litter mates and mom how to become a dog and what their limits are as far as biting and dominance. Since your pup is away from its litter mates and mom now, he/she needs to keep socializing with other dogs. But be careful because your pup is still in a stage of its life that it contract Parvo. Even though your pup probably has received shots already it is still possible for your pup to contract Parvo. So it's best to talk to your vet before taking your pup to a dog park. Best bet is to set up play dates with other dogs that are up-to-date on their shots. And play on your own turf or theirs making sure that stray dogs don't have access to that area.

You can try redirecting your puppies energy by taking your pup for a walk and teaching him/her leash rules. Or start training your pup to fetch making sure that when they get the toy they don't kill the toy (i.e. shaking the toy, trying to tear it a part). Again those are dominant traits.

Adina is correct about Consistency. It is very important to not let your pup/dog ever get away with what rules you want set in place because they will get mixed messages. So anyone coming into contact with your pup (e.g. playing with your pup, puppy sitting) should know what rules you are trying to put into place as well.

Lastly, once the pup starts to put any part of a human (e.g. fingers, toes) into their mouth or something you don't want them to chew (e.g. furniture, shoes), you should immediately replace it with a chew toy that is the right size for your pup. If they don't like the chew toy you can always rub it down with something that smells and tastes good to them like beef or chicken broth or their favorite treat.

Kongs work wonders as well for redirecting their energy. Filling the kong with peanut butter around the sides of the walls will keep your pup focused on that toy for a long time. They also sell kong filling, which claims to whiten their teeth and freshens their breath but I have not used those products. Peanut butter has worked for me so far. Just remember to use this method as a reward for good behavior so they don't associate a delicious treat with biting, nipping or growling.

[Kathy Brady]

Hi Scott,
Thanks for the advice! Tully LOVES to retrieve, and will bring the toy back many times before he tires of fetching. At that point, he will growl and shake (kill) the object; isn't that "normal" dog behavior? Also, I have heard so many different thoughts about what pups can safely eat, I'm confused. Can a 10 week old have a chewy treat (bully stick, etc.) or even peanut butter?
Kathy